After 25 years in this business, I had almost figured ... Especially for those who never have their own driveway, sealed before, is all I have to say RUN! Run to the nearest phone and call the local seal coating work and let them do the dirty work. Some of my best customers were people who had tried to do at home. Without success.
But after having studied this do-it-yourself, fun, and make profits in the field of seal coating, is alsowill be able to hide with the best 'em Seal! But seriously, it's not rocket science, and with a few simple tools, common sense and a little manual labor, you too can learn to do it correctly and efficiently, and before you know it, your neighbors, you are invited to do not present their driveway. I'm not kidding! It could be worse things from a few hundred dollars for a few hours work at your leisure! So if you want to have some 'fun, save a lot of money, while your asphaltThe investments in the coming years we want to do it!
The basic tools to make work easier and faster, are:
A weed trimmer 1, and preferably an inexpensive, full face, plastic coating, or at least one eye.
This is not an option! Safety is always number one rule. Also hurts like hell, being hit by flying stones,
and it would really suck (excuse my language) to lose an eye at the same time.
2 A good stiff "broom", preferably a "wire broom"Type. Or rigid, or a good drink, and reach for that phone!
3 A good blower, preferably pressing a higher power, but the smaller type handheld will do the trick.
4 A roll of tape 2 inches wide.
5 One of these tools for color mixing metal falling into a drill. Often, the quartz sand
that is added to the coating material for the sealing drive, sits at the bottom of the bucket, and you may even end up spending more time raiseStuff, as it is applied. The best thing would be simply mixed in the bucket came in could also be a small shovel to mix with him.
6 Ideally, a professional 24 "seal coating and the brush handle. This is the only element that makes things much easier and effective for you want. Maybe it's a brush to reach hard to reach places are for.
Depending on the size of your driveway, you could theoretically sell the smaller brushes home
Deposit, but mytips here will save you many hours and hundreds of dollars, so why not buy a decent brush that gives you a better finish, and you can year after year? The time savings alone makes it a good investment.
7 It is advisable to wear old clothes and sneakers, because contrary to popular belief, you will go about these things, how it spread.
You should use a latex product, and washed with water and soap and a gentle scrub pad.
An importantThing to remember after intensified in these things, it is within walking distance of asphalt on something you do not want closed, like a brick walkway and beautiful lawn.
If you must leave the ', the area blends into the feet on the driveway or in a couple of mulch, sand or a piece of old carpet, cardboard, whatever.
Even after you clean your sneakers, never remove your house on the carpet! There is always some material in the tread or sides, that the land to the mat. Guess how I knowwhat?
OK, the fun can begin!
STEP # 1 Border correct.
Before you begin applying the sealing coating, proper cleaning and preparation is essential. After removing everything from the driveway, you should use a "weed trimmer" as necessary to ensure that all growth was removed along the perimeter, and there are grass overhanging the edge of the surface of the driveway, and I also inform the trimmer to clean the walls and doors, depending on howgrowth is close to the driveway, you can get a sharper turning the trim on the head with the string trimmer cutting vertically to get a precise edge. Of course, ever, ever, with this tool without eye protection! I use a full-face, the kind of clear plastic Home Depot. They are cheap, and every time I hear a loud "clack" as a rock Zings on the screen, I just gotta smile. In addition, the stones flying up to you more often if you hold the trimmer in the headLocation. Once you've cut the edges, now comes the really fun part. Cleaning! I hate cleaning. Well, actually, unless the driveway is heavy deposits of dirt, is not so bad.
STEP # 2 Proper cleaning.
There is so much easier to have two people in this part of the process. A person on a broom and a person on the leaf blower. If you have a small fan by hand, which is fine, then it will just take a little '. If the driveway is relatively clean, this is notlong at all. Start at one end, and slowly make your way to proceed in a pattern of back and forth, while the radicals, and loose deposits of sand or soil before the explosion. Keep marching forward, and be sure to blow away every square inch, such as your uniform order not to lose to keep all deposits. If the driveway is exceptionally dirty, you can use the pressure is first wash.
Step # 3 Cracks.
This is something that is a bit 'more complicated. Some areas of theCountry do not make plans, such as freezing and thawing are rare. But even penetrate the water and washes away the base material below, and then, if possible, it is better to seal that is where most of the premature wear. In some areas of the country, is the most important part of the crack sealing work. Here in New England, is crucial. I use a "hot melt rubber" material, but if you have the proper equipment, it is difficult for the averageFamilies using this process. However, they make a rubber band or a wire that can be applied, and then melted with a torch and trowel. Maybe you want a little Sprinke 'of fine sand on the hot rubber, so it does not follow, or have leaves and debris with a stick, before it is made. There are also full of liquid acrylic available and, depending on the size and quantity, this may work better for you. Each crack sealing should be done before the seal coating, and if followed by the type of liquidinstructions, and perhaps there is some cure time before coating to seal. If you use this method, I would suggest a cheap brush, and after the application of crack sealant liquid, a sort of "touch up" to help dabbing the brush, the structure harmoniously into the surrounding area a bit 'better. This brush should be rinsed with water, and you may need later in this project. This would also be the time to be any oil stains that address. If there is a long stain, hassoaked in asphalt in the course of time, nothing can solve, but there is an oil stain "primer" to buy, to join the sealing surface of the oil patch. May be available where you buy your sealant. Otherwise, I might give you some professional finish sealing bought wisely and handle of the brush. All you have to do is pour a little 'out and brush over the stain. It must dry fast enough.
Step # 4 The prepared material.
It is here that could get messy.The best method, as already mentioned, the barrel would be great on a drill mixing paint. Or have an empty bucket and pour it over back and forth, while from time to time to mix with something in the buckets. Depending on the brand of sealant, sand content, and how long he sat on the shelf, this process can vary in difficulty. You might want to mix the most of your bucket in advance, stop for half a bucket next to eliminate the mix of applications. This is to help where they can have aAssistant, but when the material seems pretty good mix when it opens, it will not be a problem anyway. Be careful, this mixture into the driveway where, if something spills, it will do any role. If you buy the materials days in advance, they could always put your head for a few days in order to remove the sand, and, hopefully, the lid tightly closed and not leaking!
STEP # 5 The use of the material.
After mixing, start pouring out! Try it spread evenly over theEdge of the driveway in a still from side to side A.. Do not worry about the amount you pay at this early stage, and you can also download the bucket all in one year, keep the bass in front of you to minimize splatter, as it moves from side to side. It 'best to stay back 3 feet or so from the edge, just play it safe. Once on the surface, take the brush and work from side to side, a slight pressure, a continuous succession of material closer toSurface edges. At this point you should walk and entered in the material carefully so as not to plop into the material and cause splatter.
The general idea is to work slowly to the edge of the material without too much excess material to the limit. Maybe you want to practice in a non-critical first, instead of turning right against a concrete apron, stone masonry, brick or pavement. Hold the brush in a corner, pushing the material more closely, while theAt the same time the amount of material to try to regulate who is forced. Better too much than too little. It 'just a little' uncomfortable to pull back the excess material, if you get too close to an edge. If you need and can not drag the brush with the front edge to back the excess material, some cardboard, you can always, your credit card (this is the best use for them these days anyway), fingers, anything . Another thing that you want to keep on hand in case of breakdown orSplatter is a water pipe. If you splatter a door in a big way, you can easily hose out, and I always recommend a spray bottle with water to keep very close, perhaps mounted on a tube belt, minor errors short summary.
Remember, on a hot summer day, this material can be dry in seconds on a hot surface, and then too late to be washed. But do not worry. After drying, you can usually get him out with a wire brush, sandpaper, or something.There are some solvents, and gasoline (with caution) that the material received, but some of these solvents in a mess even bigger when on a porous surface.
Sometimes it is better to leave a small spot to create a larger one. I would also recommend instead of tape over the edge of the surface, what you want to keep clean, such as sidewalks, parking aprons, etc., at least until an expert on "cut-in" to be. Once you have completed your first step on the top edge,I kept walking back and forth, the material is pushed in front of you as you go along. Just relax and let the brush work, but it is necessary to maintain a firm grip on the brush at a slight downward pressure to keep the bristles are bent slightly backward. If on, pop or face down, you could "talk" and patchwork material, which does not belong. Just hold the handle of the brush on a relatively steep angle to be close to his chest, and everything will be fine. Be sure not to push the brush withHandle in front of your neck. If he manages to attract something, or you're traveling, it's really hard to attract a broomstick from the throat while you flop around the world. Oh, sure, you may see it as a joke, this happens at a safe distance, as you call 9-1-1, but it makes a mess! Once you start the first line, continued without overlapping the row you just completed, to ensure maximum penetration of the material.
All this may sound complicated, but the restRest assured, after a few steps, you'll get a feel for it, and you are off and running like a pro. As you reach the end of a line, try adjusting the amount of material as it gets near the trailing edge, and the kind of beating the brush "around the corner" if you know what I mean. It is not a corner, but brushing the material closer to the edge as possible without the shedding of excess material from the side, and further to the front page a little ways. Sometimes, I'll keep on hand for 4 or 5Feet, if I have a good "run" in progress. You will find that handling the brush, moving from side to side in the hands as you go from left to right. Are you totally confused now? Great, I did my job!
After 2 or 3 rows of brush material, you must now return to the beginning and just brush those footprints. The same applies to other techniques. Now you must go out of the way a little, 'as in brushing the same fingerprintsModels, how they spread out. I sometimes spread to 4 or 5 lines of material before he hit back at the footprints. This gives you a little 'more than a few lines of print with a brush, and gives you space to a few lines of material without the right material step "brushed" the footsteps of. Sense?
If you wash in all the low points, so you have a pool of material in one place, the brush is missing, just select the brush up off the surface of abits, and the angle, so you just brush the spot with the lower part of the brush. You can also use this technique to "flick off" the stones that mysteriously appear in your materials from time to time. Try to keep the lines, if only because it is to improve the final appearance. Many driveways curved or odd shapes. Take a look around, as you brush, and try to be the common model makes more sense to try to maintain a steady development toward the goal line to introduce yourself.For example, as one enters a curve, the lines are wider at the outer edge of the curve, and narrower on the inside of the curve, as you gradually angle the strings to try to stay parallel with the overall width of the road. Just aim the brush only by ignoring the previous line, is brushed evenly distributed, as no longer hold the line. It 'a little' as the baggage carousels at the airport. When it reaches the corners, the inner edge is narrower than theFan overboard. And 'as if by magic, I tell you, Magic!
Often, a driveway a "turning apron", where you can in the back and "Turn Around." If you receive one of these, there are some ways to address them. The best thing is to stop your file, making sure to leave an excessive amount of material at the tip to minimize the potential of the edge before you cut drying finish in attendance. If you do this, also make sure that the fingerprint brush from rightto the front edge, to ensure that they are not "dry-in", while engaged in cutting.
Now and the turn-out, and six types of watch a mini-alley in front of you. Just use the same technique as you did from the beginning, and when you finish brushing on this train, you stop when you leave a little 'higher, as before: "There is an input line" and go back where you left off on the "platoon" of the driveway. They then begin the distribution of the nextLine, and when it started to dry out, while he was in the turn-out, try to avoid, joined in the semi-dry material and brush from a series or two while they were on the side of the driveway is not sealed until he can still pitch sealant on the cool damp, and you're done.
When you begin to meet the front edge of the turn-out, then join the two together in a seam as straight as possible. This is probably the easiest way to do this. In the case of a road that leads directly, with theGarage turn right, you can start at the end and work your way out, while the cut is left in the garage working out line by line, as you make your way. There is a right way or wrong, just better ways. You need to think of pattern brushes easier for you, without boxing yourself
There are many other options and ways to numerous to be during this short "homeowners" get to training. Now, it is important to continue to try to get enough materialin front of you so you do not run dry. It really helps a magician, spills out when you brush. Especially if your in the hot sun, when it dries quickly. When the material starts to shrink, you can always "spritz", a bit 'of water in it, and the type of brush and mix around the surface of the driveway. As I said, it is not rocket science. Just use a little 'common sense, and you can not go wrong. Well, should not do anything wrong ... The material should be the consistency of mapleSyrup, just a little 'thinner. Sometimes what you could buy a little 'too thick to spread easily. Just add a little water and stir it up! If you paid, try to minimize the overlapping material already on the surface "brush back" of the material.
The number of buckets is required may vary depending on the viscosity of the material manufacturer and the consistency of the asphalt surface. Need to find the entire square footage, x length, width and sometimes it is easier to breakdriveway section and measuring section for odd shapes and so on. And 'much better to have too much material than too little, unless you open the last segment, if you end up getting a little first. If you do not have a measuring wheel or tape, you can take a step prior to removal. The average stride length is about 3 meters in the distance, if you are really short. Therefore corresponds to 10 phases over 30 meters in length. Five steps is 15 meters long. 30 x 15 = 450 square meters. Bucketsshould review their specific calculations on the printed page. You should probably just to maintain an additional margin of 10% on the number of yards. As you are pouring the material, trying to judge how far you go bucket, and a hypothesis that it is necessary to open the last couple of buckets. Otherwise, you can go, but let it run out sucks, and if you stop and start again after a portion is dry, it can be very surprising.
Another thing to know,is that on a hot sunny day, you need to quickly brushed the footprints of the first "dry run" If you are not comfortable with this technique, you can always brush while staying just out of the material, but there is still much work . In addition, No 5 "Cutting in" Around the Edges. Often you will need to "cut-in" to certain areas. If there are many small things, "cut in" around the sides or in tight areas, you can always make these areas first, and then, ifYou get to this point with your charts, just easy to work with areas that are "pre-cut-in" and is not bogged down with little detail as you are spreading the lines overlap.
Step # 6 Make the final cut.
When approaching the end of the project, the main plot, which makes it really stand out are working with a nice clean "section of the road," he concludes. It 'nice to have support. You want the definition of a strip of 2 cm above the tape at the end of yourDriveway. Depending on the shape or condition of the seam the street, you can extend the line a few inches into the street. Let someone hold the front end of the tape in a corner of the avenue, while you take the roll of tape and walk towards the other corner of the driveway. How do your assistant, have put their end of the band displayed on the ground where you want the "line of the road" to be. Then they "turn down" the band and starts to walk slowlylong and joined the band as they go (and not shuffling feet, as this package of the band), while slowly moving the tape in the desired direction of his line. This simplicity is very similar to the controls, the use of the police, so hard to save the drinks after you're done, and celebrate a job well done. You deserve it!
Heck, even if you buy the material, they have concerns and not do the work, celebrate and enjoy a drink or two anyway. Imention are the Irish? No offense. It 'easy, the line is curved, when you must comply with the geography, by moving the reel of tape to hold in what direction to go, while employees continue to move slowly forward on the tape. The more you are part of the person walking the strip, the easier it is to be gentle curves or straight lines for control. Once the tape down, I always come back in 20 feet or so along the road in both directions to verify the lineseems OK. You can look good while your right foot on it, but you want may seem a little crooked '20 to 30 feet away to be excited. It 's always best to check, double, since that is what people notice first.
I usually make a slight curve "to" every corner of the driveway or ever, an acute angle with a small piece of tape on the corner of the intersection. What is the best one for your individual path. It varies. Once down, go back and make sure that every inchThe band was higher. This prevents the filtering material in the tape, although there are small leaks. I am very picky and demand only the best of me and my assistant, and not expect less from you, my dear friends. When a job is nothing interesting, it's worth it to the best of your ability. You can do this and do it well. Do you trust. If you feel nervous about cutting into your ability, you can always get a second adhesive strip next to the first, fora wider margin of error.
This is the order that would follow to do the job. However, you should first put the tape online, so you do not stop, clean up and stop the further flow of your work. Well, as you approach the end, try to avoid too much material as you have to draw the excess if you do. Only a flat shovel or spade to hand, if this is the case, and you can simply brush into the bucket and pour back into the bucket.As you are brushing the last lines, and close to the band, be careful to remain "within the lines band" and the brush of the last printed on the tape as close as comfortably. This is where you have the drive to get the brush off the last traces of the street side of the line ribbon.
If you mulch, sand or gravel at the end of your street, you can move the shoes in that, or step on a mat or cardboard, or simply step out of yourSneakers, and finish the last line in socks. It would not be the first time ... Do not forget to "clear" before walking down the street. Oh yeah, do not forget, "Look Both Ways". It would suck to go through before coming to finish the job.
STEP # 7 "Happy Endings".
Once you have brushed the last of the prints, if you can get a little 'more material in the corners or anything, just wash it gently back on the road. Now for the "dirty hands"Hand, if you have not already. When you remove the tape, be sure to keep the driveway as you pull up, so the excess material is not to fall onto the roadway. If so, just press a bit 'of water, and until the water runs from the driveway, fresh. Otherwise, some paper towels to dry the water, the trick is done. It may be useful in one of your empty bucket next to a bunch of chaotic band have for the landfill disposal. Before leaving the endthe driveway, you ensure a barricade to prevent anyone from driving on them. DO IT NOW! Even if you are in a dead end, that another car had to live on it for 10 years, the minutes walk, someone will turn into your path, looking for directions, because they are in a dead-end have been lost . Guess how I know ...? Insert a blank line in the bucket in the driveway, enough together so that even a very small car to close fit between them, looking for theDirections. If they can, they will.
Again, how do I know? Once, she moved to the new driveway sealed, as I turned to the two wooden stakes and a roll of tape contents of caution that I get to use normally as a barricade. I was literally 3 feet away and only turned my back for a moment. In fact, it happened twice. I was not very happy. No, not at all happy. The second time a UPS truck was directly in front of my face. I have at leastyelling at him to stop where you are! DON "T! MOVE NOT BACK UP! Do not move or I'll shoot! DAMN ... I'm going to miss the UPS man. At least he has his front tires only 6 or 8 feet in the driveway and I had to clean, when support was the wet surface in dry conditions. It was a poor tracking, but not bad. The bottom line is that people are simply not blind from their environment, and are not careful. I've never done something so stupid, of course, did. The more I meet somePeople, the more I love my dog. Anyway ... Once the barricade is present, it is enough to wash the brush thoroughly before drying, and you're done. Time of that drink now! Once the material dries, it will turn black paint. After a few hours, you should be able to go gently into the surface, if absolutely necessary, but you should at least 24 hours before the trip awaiting them, and preferably 48 The longer the better.
Once you start to use the driveway, it is possible that some tiresEating, especially in tight turns of the wheel. This is normal and simply took the food from the upper layer of fine sand that has been for traction. It 'like a piece of sandpaper for the first time. It really stands out. In short, it is mixed, as you continue to use it. You should also try to prevent rotation of the steering wheel of the vehicle, if it is in motion. This is bad scuff the surface, and on a hot day can really dig up the asphalt.Well, I think, is that everything around them.
I meant when I said, once you've done a great job of asking others, and would not be a bad idea if it were so inclined to begin, a few hundred dollars an hour to do the same for neighbors and friends in his spare time . If you decide to take the next step, I can help. This was only the tip of the iceberg. I am 25 years of experience, and that just does not fit into 5,000 words or less.
